On Friday we drove to Vence to visit its market, where we bought three kinds of salami, carrots covered in dirt (does that make them fresher, or is this overt laziness?) and sweet patio tomatoes. As the town was still sleepy (we got there early to find parking––an ongoing theme of this trip), we decided to head to St-Paul for breakfast. St-Paul is breathtaking––a village perché pretty much intact behind nearly 500-year-old walls, all stone buildings, cobbled walkways and flowering glamour. Here Girl Twit had her first official pain au chocolat, and Chief Twit a noisette (espresso with a splash of milk). Afterward, we toured the village, traipsing past art gallery after art gallery, stopping by Olive, to sample French olive oils (fascinating) and Chocolatier Joel Durand for chocolate (not to our taste). Then it was back to our car outside the walls and home to nap––still struggling with jet lag. In the afternoon, we drove to our old stomping ground, Mougins, where Fanny indulged in pain au chocolat #2. At my insistence, we also visited the giant Carrefour in Antibes. Back in 2002, we bought almost everything there: fruit, vegetables, dry goods, takeout, clothes for the kids (then 6 & 8). But we’ve both aged, and Carrefour looked as tired and washed out as I was feeling. Plus, our food habits have changed––we prefer pure, fresh, simple, local. So it’s the farmers markets for us this time.