I wrestled a salmon into submission today. It was a one-sided match as my opponent was quite dead, and I had a cleaver. I’d never seen a whole salmon before—at least not one I was planning on eating. Usually I go to the market, and the fillets are resting on ice, all neat and tidy. This salmon, however, required deboning. (I can tell you after the fact: it helps if you thoroughly thaw your fish before attempting this, and you don’t need a cleaver.) I’m not going to go into the logistics of deboning because Chef Carl Schroeder nicely demonstrates this here. My rookie try was a hatchet job—literally—but the salmon, marinated in equal parts soy sauce and maple syrup, still barbecued up beautifully. I’ll have 17 chances to improve my deboning skills this summer, thanks to the 17 salmon still in the freezer.